The natural hair movement is a movement that encourages African women to keep their natural hair afro-textured. Born in the United States during the 2000s, this movement is called mouvement of diapers in French-speaking countries.
Video Natural hair movement
Definitions and features
This movement refers to black women (and black men) who wear afro-texture hair in a natural state, circular, rough or curly (also those who do not chemically straighten their hair but may still choose to wear it straight). The word " diapers " has been polluting since the Atlantic slave trade. After that, some Afrodescendants positively take the word back, considered in the francophone countries as a backronym consisting of " natural " and " happy. "
These women, give up "relax" and let their hair grow in natural texture. Their hairstyle can be simple or more sophisticated, with the adoption of hair twists, braids or even keys. Not everyone who wears their natural hair chooses to forget all forms of straightening or style. In addition, "being natural" does not necessarily imply strict adherence to any particular type of product or lifestyle; nor should it be tied exclusively to certain social or political beliefs. Women (and men) choose, or are forced, to be natural for many reasons. Some may not even like the term "diapers/diapers."
Maps Natural hair movement
Hair diapers: History of Afro descent
The unconscious relationship that some Afro descendants have with their afro-textured hair can be approached in reverse chronological order.
Around 2005 an underground documentary struck an independent film circuit called "My Nappy ROOTS: A Journey through Black Hairitage". The most famous film won many awards and played on the college circuit. With years of research, the film has historically seen the word "Nappy"; "My Nappy ROOTS" recorded over 400 years (and 200 hours of footage) of Afro hair culture that started in Africa through its center, rebuilding the black hair industry to date. It became the definitive film about history, culture, and economy on black hair. The urban narrative postulating 'Nappy' comes from a cotton plant, a small cotton ball inside the plant is called 'siesta'. The word diaper is born because it resembles the texture of an untreated Afro-textured hair. In an attempt to be more socially acceptable, it is desirable to have straight hair like a dominant culture. After mixed-race children are born, blacks internalize that 'Nappy' hair is unacceptable 'bad' hair. This historic film has never been released to the public. It was not until a public suit in 2009 with Chris Rock's "Good Hair" that the concept of Nappy (and the use of chemicals) is published worldwide. The world understands the concept of "good and bad hair" or "political hair" commonly referred to in the African American community. My Nappy ROOTS is starting to run to sold-out audiences worldwide. International film screenings, MNR and an organization called International Black Hairitage and the Internet help introduce the word "Diaper" to Afro culture that does not know the word or its meaning. From the US to the UK, France, and Africa, some black women have realized that their diaper hair can be wonderful for them. This questioned the unconsciously internalized association diapers = ugly ; Therefore they stop to meet the dominant aesthetic ideal of beautiful hair = fine hair . Through their hair, diapers are then reconciled with their native African heritage.
This return to the naturalness, in the organic age, has been driven by awareness of the harmful effects of a scalp relaxer: Itching, red spots, burns, damaged hair or worse: alopecia (hair loss). However, among black women, 98% of their hair is straightened out at least once in their lives, and relaxants have represented no less than 70% of cosmetic purchases made by residents. In the 1980s 1990s, hair straightening was mainstreamed.
Soon, in the 1970s-1980s, "Jheri curl", another technique for relaxing curly hair, became fashionable in the African American community, popularized mainly by some celebrities such as Michael Jackson, seen on video music for the song Thriller .
During the same years, new hairstyles emerged as well: dreadlocks (naturally tangled hairstyle), popularized by Bob Marley and more common by reggae music and Rastafarian movements. This hairstyle can be a sign of social and spiritual difference: " Adoption of long or very atypical hair [can reflect] rebellion or rejection of dominant values. "
In the period between the 1960s-1970s, racial segregation between black and white reigned in the United States. Angela Davis, a young human rights activist and member of the revolutionary Black Panthers movement made in 1966, made Afro's hair style famous. This dense, spherical hairdresser represents the emancipation and affirmation of African-American culture. It was adopted by many stars like Diana Ross and Jackson 5.
A century earlier, in 1865, slavery was abolished at the end of the American Civil War. Nevertheless, the black population looks for the straightening of their hair, so move closer to the dominant aesthetic, if only to find work. At that time, the most widely used instrument was a hot comb, until 1909, when Garrett A. Morgan invented a revolutionary relaxing cream.
During the Atlantic slave trade, the conditions of slavery made it impossible to take care of a person's hair, which was subjected to defamation by the master: " Nappy ?" into a derogatory term.
The deportation of millions of Africans sets them apart from their initial esthetic activity on hair care.
In the ancestral tradition, hairdressing is "an activity during genealogical history and many other cultural traits are taught to children.Any African hairdo is codified according to ethnic group and by status."
This is the loss of this instrument [African comb], all the more valuable that is essential for the treatment of diaper hair, which will separate the black people from the nature of their own hair, because it is considered as "difficult to comb".... People Africa was snatched from his comb when he was deprived of his native land and thus taken from the irreplaceable cultural symbols, heritage, and accessories of his beauty culture.
Natural hair movements today
For about ten years, thanks to Web 2.0, more and more people share their beauty advice through:
- blog: Black Girl's Long Hair , Curly Natural , Curly Nikki , Hair List , Afrobella, Un-ruly.com in the US; Black Beauty Bag , Afrobelle , Ivy-Mag in France
- Facebook page:
- Ã, USA: Natural Chica ;
- Ã, Quebec: Pai Racines CrÃÆ'Â © ;
- Ã, French: RÃÆ' Â © vÃÆ'¨le-toi , Boucles d'ÃÆ'â € ° bÃÆ'¨ne , Belle ÃÆ' â € ° bÃÆ'¨ne , Natural Hair Academy , Black and Pretty ;
- Ã, Senegal: Astuces BeautÃÆ' Â © Africaine ;
- Ã, Côte d'Ivoire: Nappys De Babi ;
- Ã, Cameroon: Les Bidouilles d'une Nappy , So Natural So Me ;
- Ã, South Africa: My Opponent & amp; I ;
- Ã, Togo: Friset & amp; Co. ;
- Ã, Mali: Nappys de Bamako ;
- Ã, Democratic Republic of The Congo: Diaper Girl du Congo Kinshasa ; Suki na biso ;
- Ã, Gabon: Nappy du Gabon ;
- Ã, Guinea: Nappy de GuinÃÆ' Â © e ;
- Ã, Niger: Les Nappy Du Niger .
- Nigeria: igbocurls, The Kinks and I, Chizi Duru, Geraldine The Great
Forum - : BeautÃÆ' Â © d'Afrik in France; Long Hair Care Forum , Black Afternoon and Nappturality in the United States
- web-zines: Naturally Happy Hair in the US; FashizBlack , Afrosomething in France; Afro Style Magazine in the Netherlands
- video: Beautiful Naturelle in France
- youtubers: "naptural85", "thechicnatural", "journeytowaistlength", "mynaturalsistas"
These web sites have expanded the natural hair movements around the world to highlight the natural beauty of African hair.
Every woman has her own reason for regaining her authenticity; some of them want to preserve their hair against aggressive hair styling methods such as overweight weaving or dangerous alignment chemical products. Other women simply prefer aesthetic hair diapers or apart from the pressure of the dominant aesthetic.
The natural hair movement has been driven by the choice made by some stars to ignore the alignment that supports back to their natural hair. Among the diaper icons, there are Erykah Badu, AÃÆ'¯ssa MaÃÆ'¯ga, Lupita Nyong'o, Solange Knowles, Inna Modja, Janelle MonÃÆ'¡e, Viola Davis, Tracee Ellis-Ross, and Teyonah Parris.
Outside the United States, several events have been developed to accompany natural hair movements, particularly in France and in Africa:
- Salon Boucles d'ÃÆ' Â © bÃÆ'¨ne : Demonstrations, have been around for ten years, dedicated to hairdressers and black beauties.
- The Miss Nappy Paris ? competition: Selection of "Miss Nappy" to promote the beauty of Afro hair.
- The Massalia Nappy Days : Lectures, documentary projection and fashion show.
- The CrÃÆ' Â © pue d'ÃÆ' Â © bÃÆ'¨ne Festival in Abidjan (Cote d'Ivoire): Dedicated to the natural beauty of African women and highlighting the hair of diapers.
- The Natural Hair Academy : Events to better understand diaper hair, the days of advice by the speaker.
- The AfricaParis Festival : Dedicated to the "Afropean" culture.
Branding "ethnic" hair
With the popularity of "going natural", hair care suppliers have noticed a rapid decline in purchasing a relaxer, a harsh chemical hair straightener. An industry estimated to be worth $ 774 million, the sale of the relaxer has fallen by 26% over the past five years, reporting the 2013 figure. Sales are expected to decline by 45% by 2019.
Women who wear their natural hair now spend more money on products that will achieve the best results for their hair, and suppliers and the hair care market pay attention. Black consumers represent a lucrative market for hair care suppliers, so brands now have to adjust for new hair movements. Brands have greatly lowered their relaxer production and instead now produce more environmentally friendly products. In choosing what products are consumed, black consumers rely heavily on social media to measure the outcomes of others already experienced. They've done this by using YouTube videos as a tutorial on how to use the product efficiently and make reviews for potential customers to watch. Popular brands and products include Shea Moisture, Deva Curl, and Carol's Daughter.
Controversy
Many black women face a refusal to use their hair with natural curling or non-straightening protective styles. At the 2015 Oscars ceremony, Fashion Police star Guliana Rancic commented that teen star hair Zendaya Coleman - who chose to wear red carpet clothes - must be smelling of "patchouli oil or weeds". This is in contrast to Rancic praising the look as "edgy" when worn by Kylie Jenner a white woman.
Many women find that they are being treated unfairly simply because of the natural way their hair grows. Natural hair can be considered "unprofessional", turning it into a quenchable offense. For example, a 12-year-old student in a Florida Christian school with natural hair "was given a week to decide whether to cut his hair or leave the academy he attended since third grade" after he complained to school officials about being bullied by other students. In March 2014, the Department of Defense issued a set of guidelines that banned all afro, dreads, braids, and bends larger than its diameter. Such guidelines clearly affect disproportionately and target people of African descent. They are then rolled out. Returning to the guidelines in the same year in August, allowing a string of two strands, the Army to increase the size of the braid allowed, and the Army remove the word "untreated" from their guidelines. In April 2016, a Toronto workwoman Zara was rebuked for wearing her hair in braided hairstyle, which caused her to file a complaint with Ontario Human Rights Commission.
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Source of the article : Wikipedia
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